Tech Tips

Anyone who has had a car, pickup or Hot Rod with a Y-Block in it knows that you just have to have a set of ECZ-G heads if you want to make any power, NOT TRUE! Although if you are making a race engine the "G" heads or 113 castings are preferred, if you are just running on the street you can make decent power with a set of old truck heads. That's right! all those C1TE, C1AE and C0AE castings that everyone just passes over are very good heads with a little work.

To start with they have 76, 72 and 75cc chambers respectively, the "G" heads have 69cc chambers but with a little milling you can get the volume down and all these heads are "Posted". Bonus! Rule of thumb is .005" off the surface 1cc reduction so take .020" off and that's 4cc's.

Now for the fun part. I've been using early 351w valves in these heads, 1.54" exhaust ans 1.85" intake the come stock with 1.64" intakes and the bowls lend themselves well for some clean up work.

Stock chamber

I cut the exhaust first since the stock valves and the Windsor valves are very close in size but the intake has .210" to gain.

After cutting the seat

The next step is to cut the excess meat in the bowl left after cutting the bigger seat.

Now all that's left is to grind the rough edges out and make a smooth radius from the port to the chamber. You can polish this as much as you like but the biggest gain is from cleaning it out not making it shiny.

I use stainless swirl polished valves and you do need to cut the giudes down about 1/8" so the retainers wont hit with .500" lift.

You can do this on other heads not just Y-blocks just make sure you have enough material before you cut, you don't want to hit water.

These heads are going on a 292 that will power our LSR Unibody for some testing, although this engine is not likely to break any records (158 mph is the D/PP class record at Elmo) I do hope to better 130. I'll keep you posted.

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